A Highland Fling

Monday, April 10, 2006

"Kickboxing... 24 hours A DAY!"

Con Petropoulous (Eric Bana), The Castle

Back in Melbourne, my weekly exercise consisted of yoga classes during lunch hour on a Thursday. We had a fantastic instructor but the only equipment available were mats for the cold lino floor and some straps for resistance work. I remember several conversations with my colleagues about how extra equipment – like foam blocks and blankets – would have made our classes better, had we the money to spend.
Here in Hagen – my kickboxing classes put such fancies to shame.

Training consists of running, pushups (supposedly on your knuckles), situps and formation kicking and boxing work – all barefoot on a filthy concrete church hall floor. Positively hardcore. And the only equipment used – two pairs of dilapidated gloves and some shin-guards that have lost their elastic – surface for sparring sessions on Fridays.

Training is three times a week – Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays – with half of the Friday session dedicated to contest. The official start time for training is supposed to be 3pm but, as is the PNG way, classes generally start a little after four and last for almost two hours. When I turned up to my first training session a few weeks ago, I was petrified. There looked to be about 80 people warming up – of varying athletic states. But the ripped, experienced students (proudly in their satin shorts) certainly looked the part. Seriously, these guys seem to have grown a second set of quadriceps. I was quickly told to remove my shoes, pay the one Kina training fee (about 42c) and stand to attention in the student grid formation. And if you think it’d be hard enough doing pushups on a dirty concrete floor under the watchful eye of a national kickboxing champion, try being the only white woman in the room – and add 100 spectators for good measure.

A few days ago I turned up for my first Friday session and it seems everyone else in town had the same idea. The hall’s population doubles on sparring day. Men and women of all ages – even mothers with babies – all gather to watch Highlanders do what they do best – fight.

The women start first. This isn’t just a sport for the men. There’s probably an equal representation of men and women in the class but the men, on the whole, are the more serious. But put two ladies inside the circle and their eyes get the same fierce glint as their fellow male students. These people have NO FEAR whatsoever. Admittedly, they wear shinpads but this, the odd mouthguard and constant reminders from the trainers to keep their guards up are the only things standing between them and a black eye – or worse. Contests only last for about two minutes – but when the ref declares a draw, an extra ten seconds acts as a tiebreaker – and all hell breaks loose as each contestant tries to land kicks and punches to score crucial points in the final moments.

With a tournament in Madang (on the coast) scheduled for this week, the sparring seemed to take on a greater significance on Friday. Champion instructor Joseph (pictured below in the blue shorts) was dealing with a bout of his own – conjunctivitis – but that didn’t stand in the way of him directing his lesson to all and sundry on the dos and don’ts of combat: no kicking knees, no striking a man when he’s down (but on the way down – that’s another story), keep your guards up and NEVER drop your eyes from your opponent’s. When the men took to the floor, it was ON. Several times the (literally) man-made ring had to scuttle back to avoid being caught up in the action. No ropes here. Cheering is loud and spontaneous, laughing in the crowd is met with piercing stares from club members and mortal combatants always finish a fight with embraces best reserved for blood relatives. It’s a fascinating study in human behaviour and – I’ve found after feeling VERY sore for days after training – is a hell of a way to get fit.

Apologies for there being just the one picture. This is the only one that came out clear enough in the dim light of the hall. If I ever end up working up the courage to spar, I’ll be sure to instruct someone to work the camera.

Kickboxing 002

Monday, April 03, 2006

Weekends in Hagen

All my life I’ve been spoiled with access to country getaways. As a child, the excitement of visiting my grandparents’ farm in the Western District of Victoria was a joy reserved for Christmas and Easter. More recently, my man and I relished city life in our beloved Melbourne town but would escape to his parents’ property in Romsey for some country air. To get away in PNG, I go ap antap.
I might have mentioned already that Mt Hagen town is not really all that much to look at. Just a few dusty main streets crawling with locals entering and exiting basic trade stores and kai (food) bars, footpaths stained red with buai (betel nut spit) and roads badly in need of repair. In stark contrast, just 15 minutes’ drive away, Haus Poroman Lodge perches on the side of verdant Mt Kuta and is my little piece of sanity. In fact, some days, the thought of a pending trip ap antap (literally “up on top”) is what keeps me here.
Despite the fact that it’s still the wet season, most days are sunny and mild in Mt Hagen. And you can pretty much set your watch by the rain – about 4.30pm. So when a group of friends and I do our last-Sunday-of-the-month early morning walk up to the lodge, we’re pretty much guaranteed almost an entire day of sunshine in one of the most picturesque settings you could dream of.
But the walk from town up the mountain is no stroll. Sure, the first four kilometres or so are a breeze – no incline – just a trek past hordes of smiling families in their Sunday best, walking in the opposite direction towards their weekly lotu (church) worship. Then you get out of the city limits and start seeing some of the roundhouses and kunai grass thatched huts peppering the landscape. Finally, the asphalt ends and the last hour of walking is a cardio nightmare if you’re trying to beat last month’s time and not trip on the large rocks on the mountain track in the process. After sikirap maket (‘scratch’ market – because the vendors scratch out a spot on the ground), beyond the local church and primary school and just past the lodge’s generator house, the entry appears on your right and a valley fit for an Impressionist-era painter opens out to the left. A village shelter sits just outside the main entrance and so arriving visitors can often catch a glimpse of an inter-clan court proceeding or local kids mastering the art of rolling tyre rims around with sticks in the dirt. The entrance is at the top of the hill and so a quick descent around a corner and into the grounds lays the entire lodge village bare below. Little roundhouse accommodation rooms surround a central traditional main thatched lodge and meticulously maintained tiered gardens filled with poinsettia trees (nothing is pot-plant-sized here, guys!), orchids and greenery frame the pathways at every turn. The main lodge serves as a dining room and lounge area surrounding a central fireplace, where visitors are often found with their feet up and an SP lager in hand. Wood, wood, wood is everywhere. Sepik carvings of crocodiles, shields and arrows adorn the walls and only some of it is for sale. Smiling staff potter about and offer regular chances to improve your Tok Pisin. On walking Sundays, we enjoy cold glasses of cucumber and pineapple juice around a solid slab table on arrival before venturing outside for volleyball and soccer with the kids. Lunch is a must and, for the truly adventurous, the walk to a nearby waterfall might be a little hazardous but if you fancy an icy swim to cool off, then it’s bliss!
So if you haven’t all gathered by now – I think you’re all MAD if you don’t take the opportunity to visit while I’m here!!! I’m pretty sure you can guess where Nick and I will be staying when he arrives in 40 sleeps!! (But who’s counting?) ;)
Ap antap pics...
PNG washing line
A typical Highlands view on a Sunday walk complete with PNG washing line
Mumu haus win
Mumu haus win: an outdoor house under which a mumu (typical Highlands feast) is cooked. Traditionally pig, sweet potato, greens, taro, corn, etc. are wrapped in banana leaves and left to steam in a hole placed on top of hot coals. The hole is positioned under the haus win
Marasin meri (medicine woman) preparing the mumu
One of the lodge workers - a local elder and medicine woman - preparing a mumu
Me with friend Bernadine
Me with friend Bernadine - Haus Poroman Lodge manager and daughter of Maggie Wilson (of First Contact fame)